If you're seriously getting into property photography and are about to buy your first camera, you'll have quite a bit of technical terminology to wade through. ISO value, aperture, megapixels, crop factor, full frame, it never ends. It can be quite overwhelming. There are at least six brands available on the Dutch market to choose from, and that's just considering the body and body type. There are even more suppliers when it comes to lenses. But what is the most important factor to base your choice on, and what are the other seven?
1. Familiarity
Familiarity? Let me explain. In 2007, I was in this exact same position as you. Although I've been photographing since art school and later completed the basic photography course at the Fotovakschool, I too once faced the choice between different cameras. My advantage was, of course, that photography was not unfamiliar to me, but the difference between my first analogue SLR, a second-hand Minolta from the 70s, and a digital SLR was, of course, enormous.
Find a mentor
While I was on the eve of my career as a property stylist, Guillaume started the professional training at the Fotovakschool. He bought his first digital SLR camera back in 2003. Because at that time there were still few reasonably affordable cameras on the market and Canon had a good reputation, he chose that brand, the EOS 300D.
Canon was therefore no stranger and I had someone at hand who could explain to me how the camera worked. What all the buttons were for, who could help with the right settings for aperture, shutter speed and ISO value. In short, a private mentor. I have greatly benefited from his knowledge. Moreover, I was able to photograph my first houses with his camera.
A conscious choice
Although I made a conscious consideration between Nikon and Canon (Sony did not sell DSLRs at the time), I chose Canon. Because of familiarity with the brand and the fact that my husband, my mentor, had one. My advice to you: Find someone who can and wants to help you with your first introduction to a digital SLR camera. If you have the same brand as your mentor, it will be much easier to understand what he or she is talking about. Moreover, there are so many technical things you need to learn that it is much simpler if you have the same type of camera. It is also easier for your mentor to answer your questions if you have a camera from the same manufacturer.
2. SLR vs mirrorless
Is that still a question? Yes, it certainly is! Although DSLR is almost a thing of the past, Guillaume has long since been shooting with the Canon R5 , I still go out every day with my Canon 5D Mark IV . Yes, I know. That thing has been on the market for 10 years already. The system is dated, but because there is no Angle finder is available for system cameras, I'll just stick with my old workhorse. The image quality still doesn't fall short of that of system cameras, but I can't take photos by looking at a screen because I miss details that I often don't see with the naked eye (Hey, what's that under the bed!) and looking through the viewfinder on your tripod is deadly for your back.
3. Crop versus full-frame
Have you made your choice between DSLR and mirrorless? Then the next question is: crop factor sensor or a full-frame sensor? I can elaborate enormously on the technical differences between the two, but it essentially comes down to this: a crop factor sensor is smaller than a full-frame sensor. This means that a crop factor sensor collects less light and less data when you press the shutter button. The more light output and the more information is stored, the greater the dynamic range (how much you can get out of the dark and light parts of the photo) the better the quality of the photos. The size of the sensor is more important than the number of megapixels.
Other differences
There is a large price difference between the two different sensors. Crop factor sensors are usually found in bodies made of cheaper parts and a plastic casing. A full-frame sensor is housed in a body that is more resistant to weather and dust. Furthermore, the body is made of a durable magnesium alloy. Lenses for a full-frame camera are more expensive than lenses for a crop factor camera. The quality of these more expensive lenses is also better, with few exceptions. It is important to know that you cannot use the cheaper lenses for a crop sensor camera on a full-frame camera. The reverse is possible.
If you can afford it, buy a full-frame camera. However, when purchasing your first camera, the price can be a good reason to opt for a crop factor camera. Crop sensor bodies and lenses are, honestly, perfectly suitable for producing good real estate photos. The moment you're generating a reasonable turnover, you can always switch to the more expensive system.
4. Canon versus Nikon versus Sony
You can't really make a bad choice when it comes to the camera brand. As long as you can manually adjust your aperture, ISO value and shutter speed, you'll be fine with the bodies from any manufacturer. However, I think it's wise to choose Nikon, Sony or Canon. There is more help available online and there are more lenses available for these three brands than for other manufacturers. I have already stated that the most important factor is to follow in the footsteps of a mentor who has extensive experience with one of these two manufacturers. Not only in terms of knowledge, you will also have the opportunity to test out lenses from them.
Prices vary between Canon, Sony and Nikon
Apart from your mentor, there are other factors you need to consider when making a decision for a particular brand. Although it was really different in the past, when Canon was really cheaper than Nikon, the prices of different brands are reasonably comparable. Unfortunately, just very expensive. I use the Canon 17-40 EF F4.0 -lens still and that was, with truly perfect glass, around €700. Unfortunately, for a comparable lens you now have to shell out about €1400.
5. Your gut feeling
Another consideration is purely a gut feeling: How does the camera feel in the hand? Can you reach the buttons easily? Is the camera easy to operate? On the more expensive models, aperture and shutter speed can be adjusted with a ring, so you don't have to press buttons and change your settings in the menu. As a result, these cameras often work more intuitively than entry-level models.
In terms of quality, there is hardly any difference between the brands. They are all simply good.
6. Skip the entry-level models if you want to work professionally
I don't want to sell you a more expensive camera than necessary, but if you want to offer your services as a professional real estate photographer, image is something you need to consider. How professional do you come across if you have the cheap entry-level model?
7. Second-hand camera market
A beginner photographer might consider buying a good second-hand camera body and/or lenses. Virtually all specialist photography shops have equipment in their range that has been traded in by other photographers when purchasing a new body or lens. In a good shop, you buy second-hand cameras with a warranty. Just keep in mind: many cameras are so-called margin models; just like with second-hand cars, there is no VAT on them, so you cannot deduct that 21% again. So take a moment to calculate how much advantage it ultimately gives you.
The same applies to the private second-hand market. You can look at sites like Marktplaats, but never buy equipment without seeing it first. In a photo, you cannot see if a sensor has dead pixels or a huge amount of dust, or if a focus ring gets stuck or worse. And as a rule, the warranty expires the moment you walk out the door.
Nevertheless, it can be interesting, especially for lenses. For example, I wouldn't trade my beloved 17-40mm for a 16-35mm for anything, simply because I take my detail shots at 40mm and that 5mm makes a huge difference in zoom range.
8. Post-processing
There is one thing you must not forget when buying a camera: no camera takes perfect photos that are ready to post immediately. Post-processing in Lightroom and/or Photoshop is always necessary to achieve a professional result. A good course, preferably focused on real estate or interior design, is highly recommended. Especially if you don't have the patience and time to master the programs yourself.
When choosing a real estate photography course, therefore, always ensure that lessons are also given in Photoshop CC . Photoshop CC contains features not available in Lightroom are available, while Adobe Camera RAW , the part of Photoshop in which you edit your Raw images, has all the editing capabilities of Lightroom . Of course, you can easily post-process your photos in Lightroom but you will always need to add that extra touch in Photoshop . In our training, you will learn how to use photography for real estate and all the components you need for it: photo styling, technical knowledge about aperture, shutter speed, and ISO value, composition. And of course, how to quickly and effectively Photoshop CC used for post-processing.
A number of tips on this page contain affiliate links. This means that we receive a small percentage of the purchase price if you order something via such a link, while you do not pay anything extra for it. We only recommend products and services that we fully stand behind and find worthwhile to share with you. We spend a lot of time on this blog to create content that is truly useful to you. Thanks to the income from affiliate links, we can continue to do so without charging you any costs. If you prefer not to, you can of course always look up the products yourself via a search engine.


